gear

THE DIGITAL SOAPBOX OF ANDY CLEAVENGER

NIKON F2

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Email:  graycard18@gmail.com

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When I want to shoot 35mm film just for fun (i.e. not for money) this is one of two cameras I reach for first. The other is the FM3A.

There are several versions of this camera. This one is an F2A, which means that it can accept AI lenses. This camera was the professional’s camera of choice in the mid 70’s for two reasons: extreme durability, and an omnipresence of parts and accessories for it on the market.

Most other SLR camera systems at that time were just coming into their own and occasionally changing designs enough to make accessories and lenses bought for one model incompatible with the next. Nikon, however, managed to maintain backwards compatibility for all of their bodies and lenses simply by keeping the F mount (which Nikon still uses to this day). With only a few exceptions, any Nikon lens can be mounted on any Nikon body. This made Nikon the safest bet in terms of ensuring long term usability for your camera system.

Despite its spartan, blocky appearance the F2’s operation is exceptionally smooth and refined. Its size and weight make it balance well in your hand. The shutter speed dial is a bit more of a reach than the FM3A, but it’s not too bad. It has mirror lockup (its only real advantage over the FM3A, though I’ve never needed it) and a built-in 10 second self timer. The film advance lever is the smoothest of any camera I’ve ever used (not that it matters from an image making standpoint).

Its weak points are the lack of a hot shoe for flash and its meter. Neither of these issues are deal breakers for me though. The lack of a hot shoe is completely irrelevant to me, since I would never use this camera if I was planning to shoot with a flash anyway. I only mention it here in case it’s an issue for one of you; my legions of nonexistent readers out there.

The meter is a bit more of an issue for me only because I love the FM3A’s meter so much that this one pales in comparison. Looking through the viewfinder, the light meter has the typical  +    0    -  scale that is found in most beginner SLRs today. Its range is one stop in either direction. There’s nothing wrong with this setup, it’s just that I love love LOVE the FM3A’s interface much better. And for that reason I almost always reach for that camera first.

There is one little glitch with the F2’s light meter that isn’t much of a problem, but is worth mentioning though. If you push your camera settings too far in the direction of overexposure the light meter will eventually shut off. The reason I say it’s not much of a problem is that you have to push your settings like 6 or 7 stops past the correct exposure in order to get it to happen. I rarely find myself in that situation. But If I do, no big deal... I just start stopping down until the light meter kicks in again. After all, I was going to have to stop down anyway.

While I’m proud to own and use this piece of photographic history, and would never sell it, I would also not go out of my way to buy one if I didn’t have it already. If you’re looking for a manual focus SLR body, and can live without mirror lockup, I highly recommend the FM3A.